Make-up in the 1940's- eyes and lipstick

Here are the rest of the make-up tips from Skönhet by Vivan Huber from 1946, covering the proper colours of eyeshadows and lipstick.


Eyes
The first step is to remove any powder from the eyebrows and lashes with some cotton dipped in cold water and then wrung out. Then eye shadow may be applied, if one wish to, but preferably only for the evenings. Only on the upper lid, never on the lower. That fashion belong to past times and has an ageing effect. Then dip a small brush in white Vaseline and brush it one the brows and the lashes. Nowadays it is common to dye brows and lashes permanently, but if one don't want to do that, then dip a brush in a suitable pigment and then apply to the brows and lashes.Eyebrows should be shaped into a natural shape- the very thin eyebrows are not fashionable anymore. Note that fair or redhead should use blue or brown pigments and not black! If the lashes are thin and sparse, then one can rub them beforehand with a special creme.

Creme for the eyelashes
Mix 1 part castor oil with 2 parts Vaseline.
or
Mix 2 parts olive oil with 1 part cognac.
Make sure that you don't get the creme in your eyes!

Lipstick
Make sure that the lips and supple, rubbing them with almond or olive oil, or cocoa butter in the evenings. A golden rule when choosing lipstick is that it should harmonise with powder and rouge. Ruby-coloured lips with orange-toned rouge and pink powder will make the prettiest face hideous. For days, especially during winter, choose more natural colours and save the more colourful lipsticks for the evenings. If you have pretty teeth, then the lip can take a heavier painting than if the teeth are dis-coloured.

First apply the lipstick on the middle of the upper lip and then tone it out to the sides, then do the lower lip the same way. Even out with a finger, making sure that then rub the lips together. Use a paper tissue to remove any lipstick blunders. Observe that it is important to always remove all traces of old lipstick before a new layer is applied. If the natural lip has a less than ideal shape, then one can fix that with carefully paint lipstick outside or inside the natural shape, but that is preferably only done for evenings.

Colours
Here is a little scheme to help you to find the ideal colours for eyes and lips, depending on your natural colours.
Platinum blondes with blue eyes Eyelashes, blue. Eye shadow, just shine (Vaseline) pale grey or pale blue. Rouge and lipstick, pale cherry.
Platinum blondes with brown or green eyes Eyelashes, brown. Eye shadow, gooseberry green or moss green. Rouge and lipstick, pale cherry.
Ash or golden blondes, blue eyes Eyelashes, brown. Eye shadow, blue. Rouge and lipstick, bright red.
Ash or golden blondes, brown or green eyes Eyelashes brown. Eye shadow, golden green or moss green. Rouge and lipstick, bright red.
Redheads, every eye colour Eyelashes, brown. Eye shadow, gold, brownish green or gooseberry green. Rouge and lipstick, bright red, but in a paler shade than for blondes and preferably with a yellow tone.
brown hair, every eye colour Eyelashes, dark brown. Eye shadow, blue or golden brown. rouge and lipstick, bright red but in a darker shade, eventually toned purple.
Dark brown or black hair, every eye colour Eyelashes, black. Eye shadows, smoky grey or dark blue. Rouge and lipstick, blood red, purple tone is very good here.
Grey or white hair, every eye colour Eyelashes, dark grey. Eye shadow, only shine (Vaseline) unless one is very wrinkled, then nothing at all. Rouge and lipstick, pinkish red or pale cyclamen.

I must say that I'm a bit surprised over the variety there was on eye shadows, mostly brown and blue are mentioned.