Fitting your body

Madame Grés fitting a model in the 1940's

Last Wednesday we had our first tailoring meeting. The usual difficulties in getting a time when everyone is able to come, applied, so it was just Pimpinett and Betty and I, meeting up at my place. After scones and tea, we talked tailoring and Pimpinett worked on her jacket and I on my first mock-up. Which is bringing this post, as some of the, for me usual, fitting issues applied. It is also partly inspired by this post by Pimpinett.

A great thing with sewing for yourself is that you have the chance to make clothes that actually fits you. Ready-made clothes are, by necessity, made after a standard figure, a figure that very few of us possess. But to make your creations fit, you also have to take a long hard look at your body and address the way you look without fibbing. If you ignore something because you don’t like the way you look, the result will be badly fitted clothes that probably will highlight what you want to hide.

This is what I see when I look at myself: From the front I look like an X. My bust and hip measurement are rather equal, with a waist that is significantly smaller. But from the side I look much more like a B. Basically all excess weight I carry around are placed on my bust, hips and tummy, but I have a very flat derriere and also no sway to my back to talk about. Other important points are my high waist and rather narrow back. This is what I look like. I may, and I do, like some parts of my body better than others, but they are all part in how my figure looks and I need to take them all in account.

Clothing Construction Lab, 1943

When I was new to pattern construction I regularly lengthened the waist on my patterns too much. The pattern pieces looks so odd having such high waist, they looked better proportioned, as pattern, with a longer waist. This invariably led to wrinkles at the waistline, as they got too long for my body. That’s what I got for ignoring what my body actually look like.

My jacket, after Pimpinett has helped me with the fitting, has few alterations in the front, the waist darts has been tweaked a little. The side seams are left as they were, but the back has some drastic changes. The waist darts have been tweaked, and the whole back shortened, which has also lead to a new armscye. An excellent example on what a large bust can do- here it is eating up length in the front. Another option is to make a full bust adjustment, but I think it will be easier to change the back. The jacket is also too long, which plays havoc with my proportions- my legs look shorter and the lower body longer.

 

Regardless of body shape, clothes that fits you well, makes you look better. And if you know your body, you have a much easier time when it comes to choose a fit that looks good on you. To use myself as an example once again, a jacket shouldn’t be too short either. My narrowest point on my body is my waist, and a jacket that ends there, makes me look bigger than I am. A reason to why I rarely use this faux fur jacket, despite liking the style a lot.

A review on Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing

I’m sure most, if not all of you, know about Gertie's New Blog For Better Sewing and so you already know that her book, Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing by Gretchen Hirsch. It is a sewing book for those interested in sewing vintage, heavily inspired by the book that started out Gertie's blog, once upon a time, VOGUES New Book For Better Sewing from 1952. It’s been out for a while, so my review comes a little late, but better late than never.

Content

The book has several parts and begins with a chapter on vintage sewing and a discussion on patterns, vintage versus reproduction. Then follow chapters on preparation, techniques, tailoring, how to change patterns and fitting. The book also contains several multi-sized patterns and the last part gives sewing instructions, tips and tricks as well as pattern adaptations on them.

Style

The book is hard backed with a spiral, which makes it both sturdy and practical. There is a lot of illustrations and additional information apart from the actual text. The writing style is very informal and the book is easy to read.

Pros and cons

The layout of the book is very pleasing and it is also a book that is unique just that it targets vintage sewing, but in a modernized way. For me, who has been sewing a long time and enjoy reading sewing books, there weren’t anything in the techniques and fitting chapters that were new to me, but that isn’t really a con. One thing that may annoy readers is the rather chummy style the book is written in. here is your pal Gertie who really wants you to love sewing as much as she does and she has a lot of personal opinions on it. I didn’t mind, but if you want your sewing book more formal and impersonal, then this might be irritating.

The biggest pro for me is the patterns. Considering what a pattern cost and what a sewing book cost, this book is really worth the money! There are also several blouse patterns, which I have been looking for. I also really love the wiggle-dress with kimono sleeves that utilize an underarm gusset for a fitted look. I have yet to try any of them, though I plan to start with a blouse.

The vintage style presented in this book is Gertie’s own style which is heavily 50’s with some 40’s thrown in. So if you are interested in other vintage eras, then you may find the pattern section disappointing. Also, there are no trouser pattern at all, which doesn’t bother me as I never wear trousers, but, again, may be irritating for those who do.

The biggest con is the fit on some of the clothes. They are all modeled by Gertie herself and some of them just don’t fit well while others look great. I suspect that part of this is due to the way they are photographed as almost all patterns are made up in two versions and one version can fit well, but the other one don’t. I really find this rather annoying and something that would probably be possible to work around.

I have read reviews that which for more than one model to see how the patterns would look on other body types. I don’t think it’s so odd, the cost of making the clothes in several sizes and finding models for them would probably climb rather quickly. And, after all, you don’t get pictures of more than one model when you buy a pattern.

To sum it up

I like this book, but I don’t feel that it is the ultimate book for me information-wise. I have other sources that are true and tried and which I will continue to use them. However, if you are relatively new to sewing, or is about to begin, then I think this a really great book. I really love the attitude throughout the book that sewing is fun and easy, so if you think it’s scary, read this book! And, as I have already said, the patterns alone make the book worth the money!

 

A few homespun advices on sewing

Maureen O'Hara looking glamorous and sewing in 1946, picture found at Life archive

I have been sewing since my late teens, mostly because I became more and more frustrated with the lack of clothes that fitted me properly. I’m not fantastically skilled and I’m not quick (unfortunately) but it is something that I really enjoy doing it. In fact, I tend to get rather testy if I don’t get to do some sewing for several days. I’m working on getting more structure into my sewing and one of my obstacles- a very untidy sewing room, has almost been eliminated. I often hear people sigh and say that they wished they could sew and I say. Well, why don’t you start? I realize that not everyone will like it as much as I do, but sewing is not as hard as it may seem. If you start with something easy, work slowly and carefully, then I am sure that most everyone can pull something pretty and wearable together.

To encourage those who find sewing scary I have compiled a littler list of advices. They are not professional or all-embracing, but they are things I have found useful and helpful myself.

A brief sewing update

I got a bit behind on my regular sewing as I made a dress for Fraulein Frauke. I didn’t feel altogether pleased with the result and the camera went on strike, so no pictures of that. The club was as fun as usual though and I got the opportunity to say hello to some of my fellow vintage bloggers, Pimpinett, Elsa and Miss Meadows. But now I’m back to normal and trying to finish my yellow ensemble. It feels like very slow work, partly because I use French seams which is a bore to sew, even though the end result is worth it. It’s also three garments, not one, but now the skirt and the blouse only need some finishing touches. I still need to set in the sleeves and make the lapels on the bolero though.

Much to my dismay I have realized that you can find the reproduction patters from Vogue and Buttericks on Etsy. Very dangerous for my wallet, but so nice to find out of print patterns for good prices and definitely lower shipping costs! I just got these lovelies, a coat from 1946 and a suit from 1940.

Hat patterns, part 1

It may seem a bit daunting if you never tried it, but making a hat isn't very difficult. You don't have to work with hat stocks and steaming felt or straw- a hat can be sewn, knitted or in chrochet. And it isn't too difficult to find period patterns online. On Etsy you can find re-printed PDF-patterns for a few dollars. Printable patterns can be a bit of a hassle as you may need to cut and paste to get your pattern, but a hat is so small that you may not need to paste at all. Here are some of the 30's and 40's patterns that I like- there are more.

Pretty hat and posy made of leather

Sewing update

Most of my vintage patters have been purchased from New Vintage Lady. Even if I could change smaller patterns to fit me, I’m a bit too lazy for that and NVL specialize in larger vintage patters, even if she has smaller sizes too and I have always been very pleased with my shopping experience. Yesterday I got a few new patterns.

This suit is 2 inches too small over the chest, but I’m not too lazy to change a pattern for that. I really like the jacket and I’m thinking of making this one in brown silk noil for one of my spring suit. I just have to decide on the design of the blouses- there is to be one in brown and one in green for this suit. The jacket has a detachable collar and cuffs, so I’ll probably do those in green too.

The swing dress in action

Here is a few pictures of Sense & Sensibility's swing dress that I reviewed here. To be truthful, I have been more pleased with other sewing projects. I strongly suspect the polyester in the wool blend is to blame for the skirt not draping nicely. I really need a brooch at the neckline as it gapes much too much left as it is. The dress isn't fancy, but it will work nicely for everyday and I'm sure I will wear it, even if I'm not 100% satisfied.

A review on Sense and Sensibility's swing dress pattern

In the beginning of this year Casey at Elegant Musing hosted sew along for Sense & Sensibilities swing dress pattern. I joined, but when it was time to hem it I completely lost steam and only last week I finished it. Here is my review on the pattern

Sense and Sensibility says this about it:

Here is my 1940s “Swing” Dress Pattern, inspired by an original Hollywood design, circa 1942. The design comes from the WWII days of fabric rationing, which meant narrower skirts and more tailored lines.
• Sizes 8-26 all included in one envelope.
• Unique yoke with gathered shoulders and two sleeve options (short and “bracelet-length”).
• Gored skirt great for twirling! Put on your dancing shoes!
• Transition this pattern to evening wear by lengthening the skirt.
• Photo Instructions online (coming soon in PDF format).
• Click to download the Swing Dress Pattern yardage chart.
• Available for instant download as an ePattern in PDF format!
• I also have an online class available for this pattern.

How does your wardrobe grow?

The original purpose of this blog was to build a 40’s wardrobe and of course I’m steadily working on it. However, I am not at all so far gone as I had hoped by now. Partly because I have made some clothes that I have worn this summer that is just summer clothes, partly because this first year needs more clothes to be sewn or purchased than the next three. So here is a little overview on the autumn/winter wardrobe status, so far. Perhaps this is also a good opportunity that when I have bought or finished and I have showed it here, then I link to that post in the static year-posts at the top of the blog. So you can easily check there to see what is still missing.

Grey wool shirt dress
I decided a long time ago that I would use the long-sleeved version of this pattern:

Sewing tricks and planning and some patterns

I have been lamenting my lack of sewing time- I have felt that I never have time to sew. Working full time, having a family to take care of, having to do household chores. Woe is me as I had a terrific pity party. Then I sobered up a little as I probably have as time as anybody else, I’m not exactly alone working and keeping house. So, no reasons to feel sorry for myself, but there was still the fact that I don’t manage to sew as much as I like. And as a letter in the mail, Debi guest blogged about the very subject at Tilly and the Buttons. It really gave me food for thought and one thing I realized is that I put my sewing time way back on my to-do lists.

Trousers

Trousers in the 1940’s were by no means a staple in a woman’s wardrobe, though due to the war, they became a bit more common, due to practicality. We are still decades from where we are today and many women never wore trousers at all. My Mum once told me that her grandmother who was born in the 1880’s and lived to be almost 80, never owned pair trousers in her whole life. Trousers, with few exceptions, belonged to sportswear and for casual occasions. For the whole of the four years my wardrobe plans span, there are only two pair of trousers planned, the first one being part of an ensemble consisting of trousers, jacket and a skirt in brown gabardine.

Silks, pure and artifical

The third and last part on the fabric list, here are the party stuff! I hope you have enjoyed it!

Wool

I love wool! Wonderful to sew in and wonderful to look at. Here is part two on fabrics used in the 1940’s. The third and last one will be all about the silks. I must say that I think the notes sometimes are a hoot. Why does they say that wool velour is the no 1 for the French woman?

Cotton, linen and man-made fabrics

An important aspect when making clothes from a bygone era is the choosing the right fabric. It is perhaps not the first thing one thinks about, but how a fabric drapes plays an important part in how a garment looks. Just imagine a dress made of voile and then think of the same cut in velvet. This post is a list of fabric from the 1940’s. To not make it too long, there will be two additional posts that will cover wool and silk. I have translated this list from Swedish and though I hope not, there may be inaccuracies. If you spot one, please tell me! Some of the fabrics mentioned are stuff I have never heard of before, which makes it a bit tricky to translate. Sometimes I have felt to add to the original text; in that case I do so with bold letters.

Reprinted patterns

I have no inspiration at all right now, due to a really bad cold. My whole head feels like it been stuffed with cotton and I swear your IQ drops when it feels like that. So I take the easy way out and make a post that I almost finished awhile ago on reprinted patterns. Here is a little list on where you can buy some. I’m sure there are more of them out there, so if you think I have missed any, please tell me.

There are a lot of vintage patterns out there, but my problem with those is that I have a hard time finding them in my size. I am, what in the 1940’s was called, junoesque, which I think is a much lovelier thing to say than plain plus sized.

Current sewing projects

Despite talking about a lot of other things, I do work on my wardrobe. I sew diligently, but I also sew slowly, so it takes time. I’m currently working on this housedress from Decades of Style. So far I find the pattern a dream to work with. I had planned to make it in a black and white fabric, but it turned out to be a tad too short. As I didn’t want a forties mini-dress I returned to my stash and pulled out this fabric:

It’s really a late 18th century reproduction in a thin, but nice, cotton and I have had it for years. Somehow I never found the right gown for it, so now it will be a housedress instead.