Sunday, 9 September 2012

Mrs Depew's patterns

I am sure many of you have already heard about Mrs Deprew Vintage & Notions at Etsy. I have known about her for some time, but only recently bought a few patters, and though I haven’t really finished anything, I’m delighted enough to point the store out for you. Apart from vintage patterns and a few notions, like a reproduction bra buckle.

Mrs Depew also sells pdf-patterns made from vintage patterns. She has a great collection of vintage underwear, bras, knickers and girdles. I have been eyeing those, but they have all been a bit too small for me, so I have not dared to order any of those. I do have, however, ordered a few of the hats and the patterns seem to be very well made.

What really excites me, though, is a line of 30’s patterns, lingerie, blouses and dresses, from 1933.

Instead of buying a pdf that you print and then painstakingly tape together, they are enlarged by a French pattern drafting system. The info says that it is similar to the Lutterloh golden rule patterns, but I’m not familiar with that. I am, however, familiar with radial projection enlargement, which is a great way to enlarge patterns without a grid. I have been using that method for enlarging historical patterns for years, and this system uses the same idea.

You place a ruler on the lines of the small-scale patter, follow the line and mark the appropriate number. If the tape says 14, you mark 14 and so on. The beauty with Mrs Depew’s patterns is that you provide your bust measurement and then gets a ruler that will enlarge your pattern to the right pattern. The ruler for a bust of 36 will look different from that of a bust of 40 inches, but if 14 is marked, then 14 it is, regardless of ruler. Does that sound clear to you?

This is probably not for the beginner seamstress, but if you have some understanding on pattern drafting, then I think it will work very well. I have bought a blouse pattern to try it out and if it works as well as I think, then there are so many of the lounge wear patterns I’d like to try out.

Not to mention the evening and beach wear, both kind which could be adapted to more everyday wear. What do you think? Have any of you tried these patterns?


Meg the Grand said...

While I have not tried any of the patterns that require ruler enlarging, I have tried her swimsuit halter pattern and I definitely think I will be trying it again! Her instructions are very clear and well put together. I think I might need to work up a bit more sewing experience before tackling any of the radical projection enlargement patterns, though her 1930s fashions are so gorgeous!

Anonymous said...

Looks interesting! That grading system seems fascinating. I've never tried anything of the kind, but now I'd kinda like to, just for the hell of it.

Isis said...

Meg the Grand: I think the patterns are fairly easy to enlarge- use the ruler, make dots and then connect them. However, the blouse pattern (at least) don't seem to have sewing instructions, so one probably need to have the basics down before you try them. :)

pimpinett: I plan to try out the blouse as soon as I get my mitts on some suitable fabric. My stash is at home, unfortunately.

LollyWillowes said...

I've been looking at these for a while but because I'm useless with numbers and measuring I'm hesitant about being able to use the sizing up system, but that's what puts me off dressmaking anyway, the having to grade for my not very convenient height/shape! Perhaps I'll give it a try with a pair of the French knickers first. Lovely patterns though.

Isis said...

LollyWillowes: It can be a bit daunting, I admit. You don't have to count anything with this system, though- all numbers are already crunched. :) You just choose the right ruler and put a dot at teh number the pattern calls for. :)

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